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A Stripper’s Guide to the Modern American Boomtown. It’s a Sunday evening, early last December, and the Walmart is out of bread. Ten feet of shelves sit empty between the tortillas and the crackers, holding not so much as a single loaf of store- brand white. There’s still some cereal, but mainly off- brands. This is the only Walmart that I’ve seen with empty shelves outside of hurricane season on the Gulf Coast.
It’s also the only one in the country that had to ban RV parking in its parking lot — so many people were living there, regular shoppers couldn’t find a place to park. Four years ago, my traveling stripper/escort friend Tara made a guy pay for her services in gift cards from this store. The only accessible ATM in town was broken, and it was a Sunday, so they had to wait until noon for the store to open because of the local blue laws.
It’s to her credit, or all her fault, depending on my mood, that I have to shop here at all, because this is the best option for buying groceries on a Sunday night in this flat, charmless, remote town. There are gentlemen’s clubs and there are strip clubs, and the differences can be huge. A gentlemen’s club has a DJ, VIP rooms, bathroom attendants, and a dress code for the customers and the dancers. A strip club might have a jukebox and stackable chairs, and share a bathroom with the Mexican restaurant next door. I’ve made plenty of money in gentlemen’s clubs, but strip clubs have always been more fun. Whispers is a strip club. The first time I walked in and saw the carpet — a black light- reactive repeating neon mud- flap girl pattern that looks as if it should be upholstering the back of a shaggin’ wagon — I knew I’d found the right place, even if the stage was just a corner of linoleum- tiled floor bounded by low countertops.
You could just tell that this was the kind of club where dancers might occasionally wear flip- flops or cowboy boots on stage and where an ankle monitor or extra pounds wouldn’t keep a friendly dancer off the schedule. It’s not the charm that brings dancers to Whispers, though.
We’re in Williston, North Dakota, because oil companies are here working to extract the abundant natural resources of the region, and to do so, they require many men to work for them. Female company is far less abundant than the petroleum resources of the Bakken Formation. It is mobile, though, so here we come, the next sign of a boomtown after the oil and the men. The psychological principle of intermittent rewards explains the addictive appeal of gambling and Twitter. You might get a treat and you might not, and you never know, so you keep trying to see what happens next. It is the most American behavioral phenomenon.
Mineral extraction economies activate this neural mechanism: wildcatting, prospecting for gold — gambles that may pay off. Today it’s no longer the individual who makes these scores, of course, it’s corporations, but the work and opportunity draws those with nothing to lose but the trying. California in 1. 84.
Colorado in 1. 85. Montana in 1. 88.
Texas and Oklahoma in 1. Alaska in 1. 97. 0, North Dakota in 2. Someone finds a valuable resource. People hear about it and flock to the area. These people are mainly men. The newly populated area is lawless and lacks the civilizing influence of family life. Among the first women to show up are prostitutes.
For a while, everyone makes money and has fun. Or some people do, some gambles pay off. Then the resource dries up or its price drops, and the gamble isn’t profitable anymore, and the town eventually dries up or turns into a tourist attraction — or San Francisco, if it’s lucky.
Because our brains are wired to want to continue taking that chance, everyone keeps gambling, no one thinks the boom will bust. It will. It always will. Williston is booming right now. I’ve worked there since 2. Whispers’ transition from typically tiny, haphazard small- town strip club into one trying to balance down home and big city is not working out too well, and it’s an example of the boom–bust cycle writ small. Capitalism’s inherent gamble plays out on a small stage with a chrome pole while lessons in second chances and knowing when to cut your losses are there to take to heart or ignore. It’s more America than anywhere I’ve been.
Some oil workers think improvements in drilling and fracking technology will sustain the economy for decades, but that’s not my area of expertise. What I do know about is what it’s like to revisit a place you hate again and again over the span of six years, watch it change, and realize you’re watching history repeating and that you’re just another camp follower along the frontier, profiting from mineral extraction booms, chasing opportunity and running from stagnation. Andrew Burton / Getty, Shannon Stapleton / REUTERS, Susan Elizabeth Shepard. ID: 1. 42. 10. 52.
In the summer of 2. Good Time Charlies, the sole strip club in the busy salmon fishing town of Soldotna, Alaska, was the diviest, most remote club I’d ever seen. As it turned out, it would just be the club where someone would first tell me about the diviest and most remote club I’d ever see.
Soldotna never would have been on my radar if an online friend hadn’t told me about it. Since 2. 00. 2, I’d been blogging about stripping, first on my work site where I kept in touch with customers, then as part personal record, part way to communicate with other dancers online. Stripper forums also put me in touch with dancers from all over the country to exchange information about our local clubs: where you had to get a license, whether it was topless or nude, if customers could touch you or not, how much you could charge for a lap dance. The posts requesting information about different cities were a lot like those that oil- field job seekers post on city- data. Which Area of ND Has The Jobs?”I became a traveling stripper somewhat late in my career, mainly because I spent a very, very long time stripping my way through college. It was just after my 1.
I started dancing, and it was another year and a half before I enrolled at the University of Texas in the winter of 1. In the summer of 2. I took my last final and received my English B. A. In between were multiple gap years and withdrawals. I worked at the Daily Texan and interned at Texas Monthly, but was not disposed to look for a journalism job once I’d graduated.
Not if, instead, I could strip- trip around the country. My favorite place to work right now is Williston, North Dakota,” a dancer called Lucky said. There’s always oil and gas drilling around there, they pay you to come out, and you always make money.” There in the bathroom of Charlies, she and Tara told me about how this weird place was a secret stripper gold mine.
The name of the club was Whispers, and since they only had three dancers per week, it booked pretty far in advance. I called in January 2. Brandy, the bartender and dancer manager, put me down for a week in May. My husband and I had a 2.
Airstream we’d used as a temporary Portland home and later as his office when he was on deadline. I’d take it out to North Dakota, then spend two weeks in Montana, then go to Fargo to work at the Northern for a week, then back to Williston, then back to Portland.
I didn’t know it then, but once a year had passed, we would be on the verge of moving to Montana, because of North Dakota. Every Super Bowl/Olympics/national political party convention brings stories about sex workers coming to town, be it a piece about trafficking hysteria, an increase in arrests, or how the city’s strip clubs are planning to double their staff for the event.
Strippers travel to find places where the cash flow is better than at home. When there are longer- term economic shifts in play, workers who can will move to better areas. That’s why dancers traveled to New Orleans post- Katrina, when cleanup crews were in town. It’s why they go to Myrtle Beach during golf season, or Alaska in the summer, or Vegas, any time. Western boomtowns are different from tourist attractions, though. They’re harder to get to, harder to live in, just plain harder.
The intrepid boomtown prostitute finds her way there, throughout history. While my job description is somewhat different from hers (and she still exists, as a quick look at the North Dakota Back. Page listings makes clear), today’s strip club serves much of the same purposes as yesterday’s brothel or saloon. There’s even gambling at Whispers, state- sanctioned lotteries and blackjack at a table in a corner of the club. It serves as distraction, social club, comfort zone.
Williston is within a day’s drive from Deadwood, South Dakota, and Butte, Montana. In their histories are examples of the best (successful business owner) and worst (enslavement, death) outcomes for traveling women. Deadwood’s boom was in gold, Butte’s in copper.
Deadwood had a short boom, Butte a long one with various peaks and valleys. Both had brothels that remained open until the 1. Despite boom–bust history being part of the landscape, there is surprisingly little reservation about the boom among the Williston workers. After all, the price of oil is always rising. But the price of oil always falls.
My home state of Texas has been through this cycle more than once, and the differences in attitudes between the two places is striking. The Eagle Ford Shale play is close to as active as the Bakken, but housing construction has been slow in coming because they feel it could stop at any time. Not the people I meet in North Dakota, most of whom aren’t natives.
Most of them think it’s just going to get bigger. There’s so much oil in the Bakken, and the technology now is so much better, that it will keep going for 2.
The only dissenting voice I encountered was that of one old- timer who’d seen the initial drilling of the 1. It took two and a half days — and about the same number of panic attacks about towing a trailer through multiple mountain passes — to make it from Portland to Williston. Friends had told me it was impossible to get a hotel room in Williston, not because they were booked solid, but because recently they’d had problems with some of the traveling strippers. One in particular had let tricks linger in the hallway while they waited for their appointments, resulting in complaints from the other guests.
Thereafter, the policy of the nicer motels (and they were all motels, nothing better than 2. No problem for me with my shiny and comfortable travel trailer. And not once did a thought of fearing for my own safety cross my mind. Abu Dhabi Online Dating Site here. The kinds of trailer parks we’d stayed in were the ones of vacationers and retirees, ones with pleasant landscaping and clean pools.
Surely I’d be safe in this little town — and I was. Williston didn’t look like much. Vegan Dating France here. Small. Quiet. Walmart and Applebee’s were the major landmarks. The main drag led directly to the Amtrak depot, and therefore to Whispers, the very first business train travelers saw after leaving the station.
Whispers didn’t look like much either, but Brandy, a youthful redhead, welcomed me warmly and took me into the dressing room for my orientation. She made a little index card, like she had for all of the dancers, with my booking dates, contact info, and a Yes/No in one corner. I found out what that signified when she asked, “Do you date?” “I’m married,” I told her. She looked at me and said, “No, I mean, do you trick?” “Oh!
No, no, that’s not my thing at all.” “I don’t care if you do,” she said. I just want to know.” It was an open secret that some of the traveling dancers were working after hours. As a new dancer, I’d hear, “Do you date?” all week.
The cards also listed the ethnicity of the dancers. The club aimed to maintain a ratio of two white dancers and one black dancer a week.
Here is how the club worked in 2. Sometimes one would be late getting to town, so there’d be two of you.
Or maybe the lone local ringer would fill in, or maybe Brandy would pick up the shift. But mostly, three dancers, alternating 2. There was no DJ, just a CD player behind the bar that each dancer would pop a disc into and press play. This also meant there were no restrictions on what kind of music you could dance to, a policy that was exploited in full. The club would be its busiest on Mondays — when everyone in town came in to see who was on the dancer roster that week— and Saturdays.
It was closed Sundays. We were told to cover our nipples, because the local law required they be “sealed” — but just the nipples, not the areola, and dancers would dot on a tiny bit of skin- colored nail polish or fabric paint right at the tip to be considered in compliance. When we took customers back to the tiny closet that served as a lap dance area, they were told to stick their hands through leather loops at the sides of the same kind of stacking chair that was by the stage. It was late spring, so the sun stayed up till almost 1. This meant hours of sitting around in a quiet club and then two and a half busy hours when it was packed. It was impossible not to make money even though we were only keeping $1. This is a typical arrangement for a small club, but strip clubs all have their own pricing structure and house cuts.
In some, only table dances are available. In others, customers can buy dancers out by the hour for hundreds of dollars. What the dancer keeps varies from 1. At Whispers, dance cuts and tipouts usually amounted to 2. Aside from the $5 per lap dance, we were told to tip the bartender, waitress, and bouncer $1. While at most clubs there is usually a suggested minimum, meaning that you’re expected to kick back more on good nights, when I tried to tip more than that on my first night, I was told not to do so. That was the only time I’ve ever been told not to tip staff extra.
That week flew by. I couldn’t believe how little time I had; just enough to sleep, shower, eat, and go to work, then return to the trailer at night and crash before doing it again. At home, I’d work four shifts of five to six hours each; here I was doing six days in a row of nine- hour shifts. I was too exhausted to think about much. That Sunday, I decided to rest in town and do laundry before leaving. There wasn’t anything to do, but I was happy with what I made and happier to turn around toward Montana.
Through 2. 00. 7 and 2. I worked a total of five bookings in Williston.
Each one felt like a triumph of spirit. The tough schedule, isolation, travel time, and mood of the town and club wore me down to the point where by the Wednesday of each booking, I fantasized about leaving early. The exhaustion exacerbated everything, and at times I’d snap at crude customers. Some were merely irritating, like the guys who would show up straight from work in dirty clothes and want lap dances. Some were ignorant, like the ones who would leave the rack when a black dancer came up to the stage.
Some were horrifying, like the guy who told me his theory that all women secretly wanted to practice bestiality. I’d leave richer at the end of the week, but I always felt like I’d earned every dollar. The American worker has never been so efficient in terms of output over hours worked. At the same time, real wages and benefits have plummeted. Prospects are shitty for college graduates and non- graduates alike.
Layoffs and cutbacks in previously solid industries protect the profits of an ever- smaller class at the expense of those who produce value. In stripper terms, here’s what that looks like: Lap dances in many places still start at $2. Customers expect ever- higher levels of contact and performance skill, meaning strippers work harder to earn the $2.
At the same time, clubs charge dancers higher stage fees and tipouts, especially as customer counts and tabs drop and dancers become a primary source of income for the clubs. There are no layoffs when your workers pay you, so instead of cutbacks, clubs hire more and more dancers, resulting in more competition for a smaller customer pool. Do more with less! The one big advantage you have if you’re a stripper, though, is the ability to travel to greener pastures. If you would like to have a job in another town, as long as you look good enough for the club’s standards, you’re hired.
So those who can, move. When the level of bullshit is too high or the earnings too low, they the hit the road. Same as the men who wind up traveling to work in the oil fields. If you can make $3. North Dakota instead of in Louisiana, and you need that money, you go.
Is this the logical progression of a service economy? It looks like migrant labor. February 2. 00. 8, my fourth Whispers trip, was my most lucrative yet. No wonder dancers canceled in the winter — roads would get closed coming in and trains would get delayed. But there was an upside: If the weather got too bad for the drills to be running, the guys would have nothing to do but come spend money in the club.) By then, the boom was just beginning to kick in, and housing was becoming an issue.
I stayed in the basement of the club’s blackjack dealer — it was much too cold for the trailer, so I flew, and hotels were booked solid. Much of what I made that week came not from oil field workers but from a Saskatchewan recreational hockey league playing a tournament in town. The guys could not have been more Canadian or more hockey. One was missing a front tooth and would roll up dollar bills and stick them in there when the girls would come around to take titty tips. That Thursday, one of them asked me if I would be willing to come dance in their locker room for a half hour for $3. Slap Shot or minor league hockey, how are you going to say no to that? By the time Saturday rolled around, I was exhausted and looking forward to going home, taking a long bath, and sleeping in my own bed.
But Brandy asked me if I wanted to stay on the next week, because another dancer had canceled. With the sunk costs of the plane ticket and travel time, and the knowledge that even with a worst- case scenario I’d make much more than I would at home, I reluctantly agreed to stay. Whispers was closed on Sundays, so I had a day off between my two 5. All I did, aside from enjoy dinner at the nicest place in town, the El Rancho Motel’s steakhouse, was catch up on the internet and watch the Oscars. Diablo Cody was up for Best Original Screenplay for Juno, so I watched with particular interest; we’d exchanged a few emails in the early days of stripper blogging.
When she won, I thought, Wow, this might be a game changer. It’s really awesome to see an out former stripper winning an award for writing. My next thought was — oh, let’s be honest, I thought it simultaneously — There’s Diablo Cody winning an Oscar, and here I am in Williston, 3.
What the fuck am I doing with my life? Bozeman, Montana, roughly marks where the plains turn into the mountains. It precisely marks the geographic spot where I return to myself on drives back from North Dakota. It’s seven hours from Williston, and that’s as much driving as I want to do in a day after a week of nine- hour shifts. So I would stop there and go through this routine after every trip to North Dakota: Check into a hotel or a sweet little vacation rental. Take two hours to put a mud mask on my face and my ass (those long hours of lap dancing on Carhartts are MURDER on it), scrub myself in a hot bath until my skin is red (Williston is the dustiest place I’ve ever been, and you feel like the dirt will be with you forever), wash my hair, moisturize, and go to one of the nice restaurants that live off of Big Sky vacationers and seasonal residents. They’ll have real glassware, attractive waitstaff, and good food.
It makes me feel like I’m back in civilization, and I smile all through dinner thinking about how I’m here and not in Williston. Bozeman feels like the best place I could possibly be on those nights, and I think I might have taken my last couple of work trips in part to enjoy its good company. In February 2. 00. Diablo Cody won her Oscar, Marisa Tomei was up for one for her role as a stripper in The Wrestler.